Lavonne G. Gifford, LE

Nearly 85% of people will experience some form of acne during their lifetimes.  In general, we consider an acne patient to be a teen, however, the age range includes newborns all the way up to the elderly.  Not only does it range in age, but also in the kinds of lesions present, and the severity of these lesions.  We can be plagued by very mild breakouts, or extreme lesions that produce severe scarring.

Acne is described as a disease of the “pilosebaceous units” of the skin. These “units” house the oil producing glands and tiny hairs that make up your pores.  There is a canal under the pore known as the follicle, this follicle holds the oil gland and hair.  Medically known as the “sebaceous gland”, its job is to secrete an oily substance called sebum.  The sebum is dumped on the hairs inside the follicles, and travels up to the surface of the skin along the hair shaft.  If everything is running smoothly, the oil gland helps remove old skin cells, and keeps the skin well lubricated…

Here are  four major problems we encounter with acne:

1. Excess sebum production

2. An obstruction or impaction in the follicle; also known as retention hyperkeratosis (sticky cells that are not sloughing off )

3. Overgrowth of normal bacteria in the follicle; also known as P. acnes

4. The follicle ruptures or leaks into the surrounding skin and creates significant inflammation

Now, lets look at some of the most commonly used ingredients for controlling and eliminating acne…

Retinoids – Otherwise known as Vitamin A. They stimulate the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in the skin.  They are also effective in treating hyperpigmentation, roughness, fine lines and wrinkles.  This ingredient also has exfoliating properties.

Salicylic Acid – This is a beta-hydroxy acid.  This acid exfoliates the outermost layer of the skin to provide improved texture and tone.  It also decreases acne bacteria, eliminates excess oil, and helps to reduce the buildup of cells.

Benzoyl Peroxide – This ingredient penetrates the pore to help neutralize the P. acnes in the skin.  BP oxygenates the follicle so that the P. acnes cannot proliferate and cause more trauma and inflammation.

Glycolic Acid – This is an Alpha-hydroxy acid.  This ingredient helps to refine and retexturize the skin.  It also stimulates collagen.

As far as simple and effective procedures for mild acne, microdermabrasion, light peels, or exfoliants are  favorite treatments of mine.  Microdermabrasion is a mechanical form of exfoliation to polish the skin, and help remove those “sticky cells” from the surface.  The skin is softer and smoother, and all products can penetrate better without having to move through a barrier of dead cells.  Light peels and exfoliants are a chemical form of exfoliation.  Working the same way as microdermabrasion to resurface the skin.  Both are very effective!

As far as anti-aging ingredients, two must haves are Retinoids (Vit A) and UV protection (SS).  Also, don’t forget your antioxidants like Vitamin C & E, Alpha Hydroxy Acids, Peptides, and DNA Repair products.

If you would like more information, please feel free to contact me through email for any questions!

Have a Beautiful Radiant week!

Namaste,

Lavonne